Fungal Dye Alchemy for an Interspecies Reconciliation

This article examines the role of fungal organisms in fashion design, particularly their influence on dye processes and their integration into an eco- technological paradigm. It situates the discussion within an on-going doctoral research that explores the interplay between fungi and contemporary fashion, affecting objects, production processes and design practices. In fact, despite the growing interest in fungi in academic and non-academic circles, studies conducted on their applications for fashion and textile are still scarce. The main aim of the arti- cle is to demonstrate how dye practices developed in synergy with fungal species, imbues these of an alchemical power that re-enchants the relationship between and the identity of the designer and the object. Such an approach to interspecies design leans on the posthuman philosophy, whereby the textile dye process allows rec- onciling the dichotomy between ecology and technology providing a hopefully fertile terrain to inspire the industry to engage with its scaling. According to a qualitative approach, the article develops through a two-case study interpretative comparison that adopts the methodology of participant ethnography.